PAPUA New Guinea became the laughing stock of the Pacific this week thanks to a bizarre political crisis that has public servants seeing double.
Because of the stand-off between Sir Michael Somare and his rival Peter O'Neill, the country has two prime ministers, two governors-general, two police commissioners and two treasury heads.
Church, business and union leaders gathered at the Port Moresby office of Transparency International on Thursday to call for a quick end to the crisis, which now looks like becoming a protracted court battle.
But their mood was one of frustration rather than alarm. Given PNG has had little effective government of late, this is almost business as usual.
The Somare-O'Neill stoush is yet another another example of the pervading "big man'' politics that is holding back the country's development. Somare is the "Grand Chief'' of PNG, a formidable figure who was the country's first prime minister in 1975 and led the country again from 1982-1985 and 2002-2011.
He was setting up a political dynasty, with powerful and controversial son Arthur holding key portfolios in the past decade, including minister for public enterprises. The family was set to do nicely out of the $US16 billion ExxonMobil LNG project, which could underwrite the country's future for decades.
Somare is 75 and ailing after a series of heart operations this year.
But a man this big wants to go at the time of his own choosing. He certainly wasn't going to suffer being shafted by Parliament while he was on his sickbed. That's exactly what happened six months ago. The wily old veteran was under a cloud when the year began, having stood aside as prime minister in December 2010 to answer charges of misconduct in office, relating to failure to lodge financial returns in the 1990s. He abruptly resumed office in January, saying he had merely been on holiday. A month later, he was suspended for two weeks by the Leadership Tribunal. In April, Somare flew to Singapore for heart surgery, leaving his deputy, Sam Abal, in charge.
His time appeared to be up when his family announced his resignation due to ill health in June but the situation remained murky with conflicting reports over whether the old man was really gone.
By August, the country had ground to a standstill after months of political infighting. Peter O'Neill, a former treasurer and works minister, grabbed his chance. He marshalled the numbers in Parliament, which voted 70 to 24 to dump Somare.
O'Neill was installed as the head of a new government that promised to do something about PNG's entrenched corruption.
In September, he spelt out what everybody knew in a bleak "state of the nation'', lamenting that "roads and bridges, airports and wharves are in a shambles; our health and education facilities are in a deplorable state''.
But Somare was not finished. He had plenty of friends in the PNG establishment, including Governor-General Sir Michael Ogio and Supreme Court Chief Justice Sir Salamo Injia.
On Monday, the Supreme Court ruled Somare had been illegally removed and that he and his minority government should be returned to power.
Since then, things have spun out of control. Somare has been sworn in as prime minister by Ogio, while O'Neill was sworn in by Parliament Speaker Jeffrey Nape, who was "acting'' as governor-general. O'Neill has the support of the majority of MPs while Somare has the court ruling to fall back on. There were several tense confrontations this week.
On Monday night, O'Neill supporters confronted police loyal to Sir Michael outside Government House in Port Moresby and there were reports of automatic gunfire. MPs from the O'Neill camp attempted to storm the gates of Government House on Tuesday in chaotic scenes that culminated in a brief meeting between O'Neill and Ogio.
By Thursday, O'Neill was looking to break the deadlock. He ordered his police commissioner, Tom Kulunga, to take control of the departments of Prime Minister and Finance and Government House. "Anyone who has broken the law will face the full brunt of the law,'' he warned. Kulunga ignored the order and met Fred Yakasa, the commissioner loyal to Somare. They decided to keep the peace.
Despite the scenes of high farce, the situation facing PNG's ordinary citizens is nothing short of tragic.
The country has been described as a failed state and statistics for security, welfare, health and education are shocking.
This is scandalous in a resource-rich nation where economic growth this year is tipped to be around 9 per cent.
As well as the ExxonMobil LNG project, China's Metallurgical Construction Corp is developing the $US1.8 billion Ramu Nickel project.
It is surprising then that the UN rates PNG 153rd out of 187 countries reviewed for its Human Development Index, which is a comparative measure of life expectancy, literacy, education and standards of living.
That's four spots below Burma, seven below Bangladesh and 11 below Solomon Islands, which was a basket case a decade back. Literacy is a poor 57 per cent of the total population. PNG's health system is a mess. The worst statistic is a maternal mortality rate of 733 per 100,000 births, a figure that has doubled in the past decade. In Australia, the figure is eight per 100,000. Drugs and medical equipment leak out of the public system to a thriving black market. Even in Port Moresby, there are shortages of vital drugs while out in the provinces, some people have no access to health care at all.
Corruption is endemic. The 2011 Corruption Perception Index released by watchdog Transparency International gives PNG 2.2 out of 10 (New Zealand is top with 9.5, Australia comes in equal eighth on 8.8) PNG is equal 154th on a ranking of 183 countries.
It is widely agreed that PNG's ruling class has used Australian aid money and resources dividends to feather their own nests.
The security situation is a nightmare with Port Moresby often rating in lists of the "Top 10 most dangerous cities in the world''. Both Port Moresby and Lae are crammed with squatter camps where migrants from the provinces congregate.
Unemployment is extreme and "raskol'' gangs hold sway. The DFAT travel advisory for PNG warns that car-jacking is an ever-present threat, particularly in the big cities. It advises "car doors should be locked with windows up at all times and caution should be taken when travelling after dark. In the evening or at night, we recommend you travel in a convoy''.
Australia has taken a back seat in the crisis with Defence Minister Stephen Smith saying Port Moresby has to get its own house in order.
Privately, Australian diplomats despair over the PNG situation. Former diplomats and media people said this week that PNG has statesmen and reformers, notably former PM Sir Mekere Morauta and ex-treasurer Bart Philemon, both members of the O'Neill cabinet.
They hope people like this have a role to play once the current crisis blows over.
- David Costello is The Courier-Mail's foreign editor.
BOC - Mein MULTIBAGGER Favorit